Twice now in Beijing, while ordering a burger, I have been asked a disingenuous question: “How would you like your meat cooked?”I like my steaks medium-rare, and I would probably eat my burgers the same way if the media didn’t go nuts every time some unsuspecting patron gets deathly ill from Jack-in-the-Box. So last weekend at 25 Degrees, a chic, South Beach-styled burger-joint just west of Gongti Xilu, I requested medium. In the US, this is typically the coldest that anyone dares to serve ground beef if they care to avoid legal liability.
As I feared it would, the burger came out well-done. Normally, this is no big deal. I am resigned to restaurants putting on a façade of personalized service (the worst is when they ask you “Is this really your first time here?” and then proceed to bullshit about how they offer a unique dining experience). But here is a restaurant that named itself, 25 Degrees, after the exact temperature difference between a medium-rare and well-done patty. I completely respect the whole "25 Degrees" marketing shtick, but at least get the fucking burger right.
It was still tasty. I managed to forget the slight and to enjoy my overcooked cow, side-order of fries (note: must order separately), and surprisingly smooth Guinness milkshake (its like a mix of Bailey’s, chocolate syrup, and vanilla ice cream). In terms of quality, 25 Degrees does raise the bar with a solid variety of fresh ingredients – a definite step-up from TTBQ or Rickshaw. And the customer-facing staff were all warm and professional.
The real problem though is that the check was not one but three steps up from the rest of the market. I left paying about RMB170 (25US$) for the set, thinking that the bold, minimalist décor probably doesn’t cover the price difference. I would definite go back – but only after they are forced to slash prices.
25 Degrees
Hotel G, No. A7 Gongti Xilu
工体西路甲7号
+86(10)6552-2880
www.hotel-g.com
