Remembering the Details at Ginkgo

Looking into Ginkgo through its beautiful floor-to-ceiling windows at 7:30 on a Friday night, I was surprised to see it empty except for its staff. The downstairs of the restaurant has the decidedly chic and uptown feel with an open layout and modern furniture that surrounds a small stage where live music performs every Friday and Saturday night. The dining room admittedly does not match the clean lines of the décor down at the bar, though there are no expansive windows that give passersby an idea of what the restaurant might be like. However, the lack of cloth napkins, the cheap glassware and this discord between the bar and the restaurant left me with the distinct feeling that the restaurant itself, aside from its menu, was something of an afterthought and had not been given the attention that the bar, with its own menu, had received.

Their small but diverse Mediterranean menu is remarkably imaginative, with perhaps the sole exception being the combination of duck with orange seen across many different types of cuisine. Ginkgo also provides a few vegetarian options if you’re trying to avoid eating meat in Beijing. They have a wide range of drinks with prices that are about standard for Beijing – I’m used to paying 35 RMB for my Cosmopolitan. Maybe it’s because I’m picky over mixed drinks, but it was slightly off-putting when the Gin and Tonic we ordered was served in a glass you might find at any roadside diner with a straw and three ice cubes, rather than in a lowball glass filled to the brim with ice. The presentation of the Cosmo was quite cute though – they’d artfully splayed a slice of an apple over the rim of a martini glass.

We ordered a starter of fried brie with dipping sauces (about 60RMB), and the fettuccine in a cream sauce with sundried tomatoes and pesto (about 70RMB) and the filet of beef (about 90RMB). While the breaded and deep-fried brie drizzled in barely enough sauce to make a difference in the taste was a little disappointing, the entrees were beautifully executed. While men should be forewarned that Ginkgo does serve "girl-sized" portions, the filet was cooked to a perfect medium rare with caramelized onions and hints of rosemary and was served with potato gratin and a mix of roasted vegetables and the fettuccini would have kept any Italian from complaining that no one could ever make pasta like their grandmother.

The wait staff was very attentive, especially considering the hike up the sweeping stairs – beautiful but potentially dangerous when holding a few dishes – every time they go from the kitchen to the seating area. The prices are on par for this type of restaurant in Beijing – for two mixed drinks, an appetizer, and two entrees, the meal cost 298RMB – but the atmosphere wasn’t quite what you normally get at that price level.

On the whole, the food was fantastic, but there seemed to be a lot left to be desired in the details like the mismatched feel of the dining area, the very Chinese bathrooms, the paper napkins and the plasticy feel of the glassware. I’d like to go back in a few months when they’ve had a chance to pay more attention to the small elements that make dining out so enjoyable.

Ginkgo

199 Andingmen Nei Da Jie, Dong Cheng District

安定门内大街199号

+86 (10) 6402 7532

www.ginkgobeijing.com